Freezer Safety

• With summer's bounty here, how about a basic course in freezer management. Ruthlessness is paramount: a year is the maximum life for most items, and a freezer isn't a long-term storage unit. In theory, freezing preserves food indefinitely. In fact, for home cooks with residential-grade refrigerators, freezing is a stopgap that slows the aging of food but does not halt it.
• Home freezers should stay well below freezing, at zero or below. Most home freezers, especially those inside refrigerators, are at least 10 above. For every 5 degrees above zero, the life of food is cut in half. Freezer temperatures can be checked easily with an inexpensive refrigerator thermometer from a hardware store.
• Freezer temperatures should be checked every few months. Even if you don't change the setting, a freezer can be 20 degrees warmer in summer than in winter. During a blackout, a home freezer full of food will stay safely frozen for about two days if the door is not opened. (A half-full freezer will last about half as long, and so on.) Food that has visibly thawed should be used or tossed out, but as long as the freezer temperature has not risen above 32 the contents can safely be refrozen.
• Even food that is frozen under ideal conditions does not last forever. Most of it can last a few months at the most before the taste changes. As long as it stays at zero, it's safe, but that doesn't mean it's going to taste good.
• Often, food that has been frozen once can safely be frozen again. But by the time you lift these products from the refrigerated case, they may have already been frozen and thawed at least once, so do not expect fresh flavor or succulent texture if you refreeze them. The Agriculture Department says it is safe to eat meat that has been refrozen, as long as it has never risen above 40 degrees (refrigerator temperature), even during defrosting.
• Chicken, especially, suffers from "drip," the food industry's term for the juices that ooze out of food as it thaws. Unappetizing as it sounds, drip contains the liquid, salts and minerals that give chicken its flavor, and once the thawing releases that liquid, no amount of marinating or brining can bring it back.
• Chicken, pork and fish are best used within six months; they are far less resilient in the freezer than red meats, which can be frozen for a year. Anything more than a year old, except large roasts of meat, should be considered inedible and thrown out.
• SUMMER FRUIT and vegetables can last all winter in the freezer, especially cooked -- recipes with lots of liquid, such as corn chowder, tomato sauce, bean soup and berry compote, are ideal. But raw produce has a more fragile texture that can be ruined by freezing. Vegetables, whether frozen at home or in an industrial plant, can be protected by a quick dip in boiling water, to set the texture and color. Cut them into bite-size pieces beforehand. They should barely cook: The time can range from 90 seconds for spinach and bok choy to three minutes for carrots and Jerusalem artichokes. Next, plunge the vegetables into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Drain well, and freeze.
• Fruit should also be cut up before freezing, though berries can be left whole. Toss each cup of fruit with a scant tablespoon of sugar to reduce browning. (To reduce it more, pack the fruit covered in sugar syrup, made by dissolving sugar in an equal quantity of water until clear.) Fresh herbs do not freeze well, except stick herbs like rosemary and thyme.
• When you plot additions to the freezer, remember that stackable containers, not bags, are the most efficient storage units. When freezing liquids, leave at least half an inch of space at the top of each container -- water expands as it freezes. Freezer bags and containers are worth the extra cost, because their thickness makes them much more airtight than regular plastic products.
• The Agriculture Department insists that for safe defrosting, food must be thawed slowly in the refrigerator, or while tightly wrapped and immersed in cold water. (Microwave defrosting is so variable that the department does not offer guidelines, other than to specify that microwave-defrosted food should be cooked immediately.)

IDEAL FOR FREEZING
Red meat
Butter
Fresh berries
Pesto (without cheese)
Cookie dough
Nuts
Coffee
Whole-grain breads and flours
Soups, stews and pasta dishes

DON'T FREEZE
Mayonnaise
Raw vegetables
Bananas and pineapples
Potatoes, raw or cooked
Sour cream, heavy cream or cream cheese
Fried food
Food with cooked egg white (includes quiches, souffles and meringues)

South of the Border Guacamole

South of the Border Guacamole

Ingredients
* ½ Cup chopped white onion
* 4 (or to taste) serrano chilies, chopped
* ¼ Cup chopped cilantro
* 1 tsp salt
* 4 California Avocados
* 2 Tbsp fresh lime juice
* ¾ Cup tomato, seeded and well drained

1. In a food processor, combine onion, chilies, cilantro and salt; reserve. Coarsely mash (DO NOT PUREE) California avocados. Fold in reserved onion mixture, then tomato. Serve with tortilla chips.
2. Guacamole is best made as close to service as possible. Store in an airtight container with plastic wrap against the surface of the guacamole.

Linguine & Clam Sauce

LINGUINE AND CLAM SAUCE from the Grand Central Oyster Bar (NYC)

24 cherrystone clams
1 medium onion, minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup dry white wine
Salt
1 pound linguine
Optional: 1/2 pound steamed rock shrimp, 1/4 cup minced fresh basil, 12 little-neck clams, steamed open

1. Place cherrystone clams in wide-lidded pot with enough water to cover the bottom. Cover pan, turn on heat and bring to a steady simmer. After 5 to 7 minutes, start checking on the clams: you'll want to remove each one as soon as it opens. Every minute or so uncover the pot and, with tongs, remove any clams from shells that open. After 10 minutes or so, all the clams should have opened. Discard any that have not. When clams are cool enough to handle, roughly chop.
2. Strain the clam broth through a fine mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth or 1 ply of a 2-ply paper towel, tilting pan gently to leave most of sand behind.
3. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta; you'll want it to be boiling before you finish the dish. While water heats, continue with recipe: Wipe pan clean and add minced onion and olive oil. Saute over medium heat for about 2 minutes, until onion softens and begins to turn translucent, then add garlic. Saute another minute and add crushed red pepper and black pepper. When garlic just starts to brown, add wine and reserved clam juice. Bring to a lively simmer and taste for salt; adjust seasonings.
4. At this point, put the linguine in the boiling water.
5. Add clams and steamed shrimp to the broth mixture and stir until they are warmed through. Turn off the heat, add basil and mix. When linguine is al dente, drain and place in serving bowl. Pour clam sauce over pasta and garnish with optional littlenecks. Makes 4 servings.

Fish Tacos, Pineapple Salsa, Avocado & Corn Salsa

CRISPY SNAPPER TACOS WITH AVOCADO AND TROPICAL-FRUIT SALSA
6 cups plus 6 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
12 taco shells
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
4 skinless, boneless red snapper fillets (2 pounds), cut into 1-inch pieces
6 scallions, chopped
2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, finely chopped
3 cups arugula or watercress, torn into bite-size pieces
3 cups avocado and tropical-fruit salsa

1. Heat six cups oil in a deep large saucepan over moderately high heat until a deep-fat thermometer registers 375 degrees, then fry taco shells, two at a time, turning occasionally, until a shade darker, about one minute. Transfer to paper towels to drain and season with salt.
2. Whisk together lime juice, 3 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste for dressing.
3. Season fish with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then saute scallions, stirring, 1 minute. Add fish and saute, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and gently toss fish with chipotles.
4. Toss arugula with dressing and salt and pepper to taste.
5. Fill taco shells with arugula, fish mixture and salsa.
6. Makes 12 tacos, serving four to six.
   

TROPICAL FRUIT SALSA
2 cups finely diced tropical fruit such as kiwi, pineapple, mango and papaya
2 California avocados, pitted, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1 fresh serrano or jalapeno chili, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste Gently toss together all ingredients with salt and pepper to taste.
Makes about 3 cups of filling. Source: Gourmet, February 2000.

AVOCADO AND CORN SALSA TACO
1 ripe avocado, cut into 1/4 inch dice
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 ripe red tomato, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 ear sweet corn, shucked
1 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped or 3 tablespoons diced sweet onion
1 to 2 jalapeno peppers or serrano peppers, seeded and minced (for a hotter salsa, leave the seeds in)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the avocado in the bottom of a nonreactive mixing bowl and gently toss it with 2 tablespoons of the lime juice. Spoon the tomato on top of the avocado.
2. Cut the kernels off the corn. The easiest way to do this is to lay the cob flat on a cutting board and remove the kernels using lengthwise strokes of a chef's knife. Add the corn kernels to the mixing bowl. The salsa can be prepared to this stage up to two hours ahead. Refrigerate it, covered.
3. Just before serving, add the jalapeno and cilantro to the mixing bowl and gently toss to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding more lime juice as necessary and season with salt and pepper to taste; the salsa should be highly seasoned.
4. Makes 2 to 3 cups. Source: "Indoor! Grilling" by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $18.95).

FRESH TUNA TACOS
1/3 cup sour cream
1/4 cup chopped red onion
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chilies, see note
1 (8-ounce) tuna steak, cut into 3/4 inch pieces
1 tablespoon taco seasoning mix
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 taco shells

1. Mix first four ingredients in small bowl. Place tuna in medium bowl; sprinkle with taco seasoning. Heat oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add tuna. Saute to desired doneness, about three minutes for medium. Reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in sour cream mixture. Cook just until heated through, stirring frequently, about two minutes.
2. Heat taco shells in microwave 20 seconds. Fill taco shells with tuna mixture.
3. Makes 4 servings. Source: Bon Appetit magazine, March 2001.

PINEAPPLE SALSA FILLING
2 cups fresh pineapple cut into 1/2 inch cubes
3 tablespoons thinly slivered fresh mint or lemon verbena
1 to 2 jalapeno peppers (preferably red), seeded and minced (for a hotter salsa, leave the seeds in)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice or more to taste
1 tablespoon light brown sugar or more to taste

1. Place the pineapple, mint, jalapeno, lime juice and brown sugar in a nonreactive mixing bowl, but don't mix them until five minutes before you are ready to serve. Taste for seasoning, adding more lime juice and/or brown sugar as necessary.
2. Variation: Slivered mint keeps this salsa in the realm of a salad. If you really want to push the limits, try substituting chopped fresh cilantro for the mint.
3. Makes about 2 cups. Source: "Indoor! Grilling" by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $18.95).

Cicada Recipes from the Univ of Maryland

The 2nd edition of Cicada-Licious: Cooking and Enjoying Periodical Cicadas was written by Jenna Jadin and published in 2004 by University of Maryland. Sorry I couldn't find a photo of a cooked Cicada dish, you'll have to be happy with the cookbook cover art.

According to the author, it's best to use newly hatched cicadas, because their shells have not hardened. You must blanch the cicadas for 4-5 minutes right after you've collected them to kill any soil bacteria it may carry.

Shanghai Cicadas (4 appetizer-sized servings)
30 newly-emerged cicadas
2 tbps anise seeds
1 tsp salt
2 cups sherry
1 tbsp soy sauce
additional water and sherry or rice wine
10 cloves mashed garlic
celery to garnish
turnip greens to garnish

Directions: 1. Boil the cicadas and anise in salted sherry for five minutes, then remove the cicadas.
2. Saute the mashed garlic and soy sauce, adding enough of equal parts water and sherry to make a thick paste.
3. Deep-fry the cicadas, then skewer them with bamboo picks. Arrange them on a plate with the turnip greens, celery, and garlic paste to look like cicadas climbing out of a mud pie into green foliage.

Whale, the next Spam

The British won WWII with American SPAM and Japan sufered defeat with Whale meat. The Japanese post WWII government promoted whale meat as healthy and high in protein. School children often whale meat for lunch. Today, most Japanese do not eat whale meat and consumption is, on average 0.1 gram per day.

Whale meat can be prepared in any number of ways, inlcuding: fried, boiled, as bacon, or as sashimi. A whale lunch costs about $8 - $18, while dinner can cost around $75.

Today, in an effort to introduce children to traditional foods, one school district is serving students whale burger. The Lucky Pierrot burger chain also serves up a whale burger.